Shape
Looking for the current fashion trends? Season after season, I wear what inspires me and fits conveniently into my body type and lifestyle (as long as the colors match my undertones), keep it classy even when it’s playful, and then see those same styles in the most expensive New York City shop windows the next season. You might give a nod to a few trends here and there according to your own essence to remain “relevant,” but to follow them religiously would be self-sabotaging.
We were each born with a unique, beautiful shape and distinct tones, but, according to Emmy Award Winning Hollywood costume designer David Zyla and author of Color Your Style (who taught me a lot during my exclusive style session with him in New York), we can use broad categories of the various shapes and personalities, a/k/a archetypes, to help each of us find our own “jumping-off point” that will allow us to project that authentic, effective image. Most important, go with your natural inclinations and keep it classy so that you can “stand out” in a good way these days (especially if you wish to express that you understand like-minded, classy, successful people).
Before we begin, please keep in mind that each season has different tone and personality types, or “archetypes” within it that generally correspond with certain artists and fragrances as well, to help narrow it down!
1. Spring/Clear Warm: Youthful, Round; and
Winter/Clear Icy: Perfect Oval — Sisters
Below is an illustration of round (which often illustrates the softly-warm, clear, lively “Spring” color palette); and oval (generally associated with her “sister season,” the icy, deep, majestic “Winter” color palette). Although Spring is lively and has a “fresh warm” color palette, whereas Winter is cool and deep and has an “icy” color palette, both are clear, crisp, shot with light. Again, as with each of the seasons, we have several different types of Springs, as described more thoroughly in David Zyla’s book, Color Your Style.
Photo by Jill Burrow from Pexels
Fascinating fact from Zyla’s Color Your Style: People of the “Spring” archetypes (and he has several variations of each season) usually speak in a light, youthful way and often sound like bespoke teenagers on the phone even as adults (à la Amy Adams or Reese Witherspoon). Conversely, “Winter” archetypes generally have a very matter-of-fact way of talking in a soft voice (think Johnny Depp or Rachel Weisz).
a. Spring/Round
Borrowing a bit from David Kibbe, another established image consultant, to put things into perspective, if your features are generally rounded, you may be in the category of the David Zyla Spring archetypes.
This does not necessarily mean that you will not have some angularity or gamine/soft gamine combination of roundness and crispness, but your shape, and the colors that suit you, will be best expressed in more rounded silhouettes.
Your chin shape is the best guide for your most flattering shoe and neckline shape. Most, if not all, Springs have some element of roundness in their essence and actual shape.
b. Winter/Oval
If you have a matter-of-fact way of speaking and thick, cold-toned skin, you may be some kind of Winter and would want your neckline and shoes to be more oval, especially if your face shape is a perfect oval.
2. Summer: Cool, Undulating “S”; and
Autumn: Hot, Sculpted, Leaf Shape — Sisters
Below are two more illustrations, one demonstrating the luxurious, undulating “S” shape that expresses the baked-then-cooled colors of the “Summer” essence; and the other a sharply-outlined, sculpted leaf shape that embodies the hot, spicy nature of the various “Autumn” personalities, or “archetypes.”
Summer (Photo by Frank Cone of Pexels)
Autumn (Photo by Marina Leonova of Pexels)
Like the Winter and Spring sisters, the hot, spicy Autumn and cool, luxurious, serene Summer have distinctive voices.
a. Summer
Summers tend to look great in U necklines and light, tapered shoes.
The Summer often speaks in a slow, methodical way (though some Summers speak rapidly and then thoughtfully pause before speaking each time), and his/her voice can sound very thoughtful, enveloping, as befits a nurturing nature. Interestingly, Summers often have long, graceful fingers and toes (going along with the willowy, elegant silhouettes they often have), such as Charlize Theron and Meryl Streep.
b. Autumn
Autumns often rock square or architectural toes and geometric necklines with their arresting, chiseled features.
The Autumn’s tone is often dry (with an equally-dry humor) and slightly crackly, like the sound of crunching leaves, and often seems “heated.” Think Angelina Jolie and Oprah.
Size
Now that we have the shape “down,” size can vary within each archetype, though, as mentioned above, Summers are often blessed with long, athletic, willowy forms, while Springs also have reason to be thankful, for their cute, smaller, rounded shapes. Winters tend to look “perfectly regal” with their oval faces, classic forms, etc., whereas Autumns will always fascinate and impress us with their fierce, sculpted angles.
Of course, I am not a style expert, but based on my lesson (and my sister’s session) with an expert, I inferred that the size and length of clothing should complement the size and height of the individual overall.
So, for example, if you’re tall and also have cool, luxurious, often-delicate skin tones (the palm of your hand being very smooth in tone), you would usually want your clothing to be long, without too many broken lines, to accent your height. Whether it’s long and sculpted/tailored or long/flowy depends on your archetype, but most Summers tend to have that “flowy” essence, whereas Autumns are typically more sculptural and outlined in an artistic, avant-garde way.
1. Cute, (Often Petite) Springs
Sprightly Springs tend to be cute and rounded, so they would want to break their lines, typically in crisp, short circles. If a Spring wanted to dress modestly but still express her authentic personality and essence, she would wear, for example (as Zyla recommended for me, a Tawny Spring):
1. a short, straight skirt (or smooth, longer blouse (this is cool, and it even has a rare, rounded collar which suits most Springs!) with a light jacket or shacket if worn with the tapered pants);
2. tights/leggings (you can substitute modest, small, tapered cotton pants to elevate your look and remain modest and expensive-looking);
3. a baseball-style jacket (or tailored, upscale jean jacket or “shacket” in the hot summertime); and
4. ankle boots (like these gorgeous leather ones) or tapered loafers in the hot summertime (preferably printed with small, lively, rounded fruit or flowers such as these to “mix things up” if you’re on a budget, but just order a size or half-size larger). This breaks the lines in a cute way but is still covered and elegant.
The lines are crisp and staccato, but still give the general impression of roundness (such as navy trousers or soft, dark-wash jeans with an adorable, navy, apple-print blouse just showing from underneath a little navy cashmere sweater). Note how the colors all coordinate smoothly, i.e., you see navy in the blouse to match the navy pants, rather than dramatic blocks of color. If a Spring swaps out jeans for relaxed ponte knit (elegant double-knit) trousers (at Boden, for example), the look is more high-end as well as cute. Just make sure they are not overly wide-leg (or too skin-tight on you) if you are the typically-petite Spring type, which is most likely. A caveat to this is that, if you wanted to look edgy and “break the rules” in an intelligent way, it is possible to make the pants the one over-sized piece on you, but it would probably be more authentic to go with petite. Zyla recommended Boden and & Other Stories for me as a Tawny Spring in New York.
2. Majestic, (Sometimes Classic) Winters
Deep, often-quiet, classy Winters tend to be rather symmetrical, so they would neither break their lines too much, nor go with long, straight, minimalist lines. Unless one is feeling alternative, the typical, stunning Winter outfit might be a black skirt, red blouse, and optic-white, tailored jacket. (The exception to this high-contrast flare would be the super-feminine Soft Winter or the Antique Winter, who should use more subtle contrast.) These more stately, slightly dramatic boots would compliment a Winter outfit perfectly, especially for a Zyla “Playful Ballerina” Winter who needs to strike that balance between regal and fun-loving during chillier months when flats would be simply impractical.
3. Willowy, Genteel Summers
If you’re an undulating, nurturing Summer, you would charm in those lovely, long Japanese mumus and rich, flowing, eastern dresses that emphasize your long, elegant lines, without heavy details that interrupt those lines, such as breast/hip pockets (on sweaters, for example). Languid, Grecian draping is absolutely stunning on you. For casual outfits, as long as the material is high-quality, the colors are tasteful, and you are a Zyla “Iridescent Summer,” “nobody looks better in a hood.”
4. Dashing, Spirited Autumns
Dramatic, passionate, often-protective and ambitious Autumns typically have a sharp, strong bone structure and can show some dramatic flare with ponchos, architectural shapes, and asymmetrical elements. According to David Zyla, the “Mellow Autumn,” for example, can wear a clothing item that looks impossible on a hanger with ease.
Print/Texture
As with shape, prints follow suit with the same basic idea: Large prints for tall/large-boned people, and small prints for petite girls. The shapes of the prints will vary.
1. Spring Prints/Textures
Springs typically need small, complete circles or similar shapes (mine are small fruits or small flowers) with movement, etc. (not half-formed or too open such as the Summer paisley print); on smooth, weighted Ponte knits, suede, embossed leather (or even pearlized leather for certain Springs), soft Egyptian cotton, Swiss dot, etc. Again, these are only examples as each individual will have his or her own best fabrics.
Most “Tawny Springs,” for example, should typically avoid patent leather, unless it’s a trim, and keep everything (including their makeup) light-handed, short (but modest), and sprightly, even whimsical, but with some weight. I say “some weight” with the proverbial grain of salt, because there is nothing too heavy about Springs (although Tawny and Buoyant Springs tend to be slightly rock-and-roll). Most Springs should avoid minimalism and super chunky sweaters, opting instead (for example) for fine cashmere and Ponte knits with a bit of lively, coordinating print somewhere in the outfit.
2. Winter Prints/Textures
Many Winters can effectively do sharp, tight plaids; lush, mid-sized-to-large florals (if curvier); broad stripes; and color-blocks, etc. These icy queens should generally stick with classic textures such as wool, lace, cotton, and velvet.
3. Summer Prints/Textures
Most Summers are fabulous in long, willowy, subtle stem prints or wispy paisleys, with soft, flexible or light, airy textures such as chiffon and cotton jersey. Grecian gowns or soft, wide-leg pants come to mind. No one else does the lived-in, cool/relatable, worn-in, comfortable, approachable look better.
4. Autumn Prints/Textures
Autumns are fantastic in edgy, jagged leaf prints and can rock interesting textures and details such as bouclé, brocade, shantung, raw silk, and even tasteful fringes on holidays. Their clothing should be able to fall across their bodies in the most artistic, avant-garde fashion.
Contrasts
As we have seen with the Winter personality, contrasts can vary from archetype to archetype within each “season.” Basically:
1. Winters tend to have the most contrast, but more as color blocks rather than prints (for most of their archetypes);
2. Springs are usually crisp, girly, and adventurous as you can see in the works of French artists like Renoir, Fragonard, and Rousseau; but the slightly-cooler, Early Spring can be blended and water-color as depicted by the French artist Monet, “as though you are looking out of a train window on a rainy spring day,” but still “shot with light,” as David Zyla describes in his book Color Your Style);
3. Summers typically have a soft, gentle contrast, with the Iridescent Summer, one of several Summer archetypes, passing on stark white backgrounds; and
4. Autumns often have rich, subtle contrast built into their fabrics, such as bouclé and brocade, with rich, oily colors.
Personality/
Best Fragrances
Zyla’s book, Color Your Style indicates which artists, silhouettes, fragrances, and personality traits best demonstrate the various seasonal archetypes, and he does this for each of the archetypes within every season (Spring, Winter, Summer, Autumn).
My own personal fragrance journey was quite long, but fascinating, and it ended in a unique, playful, feminine, still-classy, but very fresh place. It was difficult to find one fragrance that ticked all those boxes, but the key finally turned out to be looking for something interesting and pretty rather than traditionally beautiful, and I could not be happier with the result. (I am now layering one or very few sprays of three different fragrances, two of which are very light, for the perfect result.) This “key” will be different for everyone, which I describe more thoroughly in this post.
Outstanding Style
Now that you know the rules, the most amazing way to break them without looking clownish or like a caricature (on “downtime” occasions where you might not necessarily need to appear authentic and/or trustworthy, but rather carefree and in-the-moment), according to personal stylist Ellie-Jean of Body and Style, is to go slightly against your type, but with only one piece or detail per outfit, depending on your mood. I’m in a rather jaded, ironic mood at the moment romantically (although my own particular Maverick/Tawny Spring archetype is a “mix” of slightly classic with youthful, super feminine but fresh, ironic style), so, even though I am “supposed” to wear fabrics with the idea that “less is more,” I’m kind of into summery, willowy, nonchalant, wide-leg pants in dark colors (well, more deep than dark, being a Spring), especially if it’s a jean in a very light-weight, feminine denim. Then, I pair it with a more classic ingenue (i.e. Spring archetype) top, like a petite sweater (cashmere instead of wool, which is too heavy for me but would look smashing on a natural Autumn or Summer type, except for the delicate Iridescent Summer, who should keep it light). I’ve even been told that this alternative styling is “refreshing” on me!
Conversely, last winter, I often styled slim, deep-wash jeans in a very soft denim or “ponte” double-knit (classic/ingenue/crisply rounded Spring) with a long blouse or short skirt and a slightly chunky hoodie (perhaps more suitable for a Gamine Autumn or some kind of Summer) rather than my usual, more classic varsity jacket, to balance the short skirt or long-line, feminine blouse with the slim jeans.
If you already have a lot of natural — typically Summer (or maybe certain types of Autumn) with blunt, wide bones — you would look edgy in sharper silhouettes, such as a jacket/top with sharp (narrow!), slightly puffed rather than padded, shoulders paired with your natural jeans. This sharper look would also look edgy on a womanly, lushly-curvy romantic (perhaps a typical Soft Winter archetype).
Additional Thoughts
As David Zyla put it, this is just to find your “jumping-off point” from which to further develop your own unique style. Since most of us do not fit neatly into one box, we will each want to hone our style after discovering our basic essence, and Mr. Zyla pinpoints which kind of Winter (or Spring, or Summer, or Autumn) you will want to claim, complete with the artists and nature elements that express each one. He takes your personal style and your home to the next level using his proven techniques, uncanny eye for color/shape/personality, and years of award-winning experience on set.
Ellie-Jean also presents a delightful, unique system of “style roots” on bodyandstyle.com, which I enjoyed using to help confirm and expand my personal style after my affirmative session with David Zyla in New York (although he travels throughout the United States and the world for sessions on request). Ellie-Jean can help you combine three different “roots” to find your own unique take on personal style. For cross-reference, I would say that Winters would most likely be the “mountain” style root, Springs are typically drawn to the “sun” root, Summers would probably be the “mushroom,” Autumns and certain Summers might have traces of “earth,” Summers would “rock” the “stone” root, Autumns would be “fire,” typical Winters, Springs, and certain Summers would embody the “flower,” and I can see some Winter archetypes with elements of the “moon.”
Conclusion
So! Which season (Winter, Spring, Summer, or Autumn) are you, and what do you think your special archetype might be within that season? I suggest discovering your own personal colors, based on subtle hair, skin, and eye tones as I explain on this post, and exploring your options from there.
If you are still wavering after this, I’ve heard it’s a good idea to take a natural, no-makeup, black-and-white selfie and note your gaze. For example, the witty, charmingly-boyish gaze of Emma Thompson screams edgy tomboy (Zyla “Gamine Autumn”); Queen Latifa shines as an intelligent, quirky “Tawny Spring” with ethereal tomgirl undertones; Mila Kunis’ sultry stare smoulders with “Bronze Autumn,” sexy, romantic vibes; and Marilyn Monroe was clearly an ingenue romantic, most likely an innocently-flirtatious “Floral Spring.” How fun!